400 years of history, 2 forts & 1 identity
By: Juliana Gutierrez
The morning was so bright I could barely open my eyes under the beaming Puerto Rican sun. I put on my sunglasses and tucked my heavy backpack on. As usual, I had been left behind because I had been taking pictures, aiming for the right angles and lighting to obtain the perfect photograph. I walked quickly up the hill, leaning my head back to see where the tall dark walls of Old San Juan's forts ended. Inside, centuries of history and battles awaited--I was eager to discover what this place had to offer.
I felt a sense of pride within the forts. After more than 400 years and several battles, San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal forts were still standing tall, undefeated. With the Caribbean waves crashing right at the bottom of the Fortaleza and the wind blowing my hair, I felt as if I were living in a movie scene. Just the thought of how many people had been in this exact place and the historical events that happened here made me get goose bumps.
On assignment for my class and trying to multitask between taking pictures, notes and absorbing the whole scene, I managed to talk to a park ranger who was kind enough to answer all of my questions.
"San Cristobal fort was built in 1634 to serve as the city’s land attack defense. It is the largest military fortification built in the American continent. It served as defense of the land entrance of the city. It was a very important part of the defense system because it prevented attacks coming from the area of Condado and the Eastern part of the island," said Enmanuel Rodriguez, who had been working at San Cristobal fort for five years.
National Park Service website, confirms this information: "El Morro was built to defend against sea attackers; later San Cristóbal was built to protect against attack on San Juan by land".
He continued explaining that this historical site is the main touristic attraction in San Juan and that within the first days of January 2015, they had a record of having 6,000 visitors in one day. He added that on average, around two million people go to the forts every year.
Before I continued my adventure, Enmanuel Rodriguez gave me a brochure that contained valuable information about both forts. This colorful and full-of-facts brochure, explained Spaniards' reason to build the forts in this specific location was that ''the trade winds blew sailing ships here from Europe, helped by ocean currents.'' Also the deep bays in Old San Juan made it an excellent port.
With such a strategic location that served as the door to both the new world, Europe and Africa, Spain was decided to protect it's colonies, especially Puerto Rico--which was then known as San Juan island.
Over 450 cannons, sentry boxes were soldier took guard, 400 troops, walls of up to 25 feet tall, fortifications of 150 feet tall and 27 acres were some of Spain's defense system against enemies.
In addition, San Juan had a sacred companion on its side: Saint Barbara. With a sword on her left hand and a challis on her right one, she was the patron saint who defended Spaniards in battle. To pray and ask for St. Barbara's intersection, both El Morro and San Cristobal forts had chapels named after her.
Jose Pereira explained that chapels inside the forts prevented soldiers from having to leave the defense system to pray while on attack.
Being a Catholic, I believe that Spain's preach and actions often conflicted and took opposite directions. I find it contradictory that soldiers prayed for protection right before heading to kill countless humans--needless to say that this is prohibited in the Ten Commandments.
San Juan's convenient qualities were not unknown to other countries, which were greedy to take over the island and claim it their own. Tour guide Jose Pereira said that La Fortaleza was attacked in five different occasions by England and the Netherlands.
Nevertheless, Puerto Rico continued to be Spain's colony until 1898, when they lost in the Spanish-American War and the island became U.S. territory.
Looking at this timeline and battles for ''ownership'' of Puerto Rico over the years, I found it quite saddening to think that the island of enchantment has never been an independent country. Only when it was populated by Taino Indians did Boriquen--Taino name for the island--enjoyed freedom from Conquistadores and the U.S.
However, it was amazing to see how Puerto Ricans cherish their culture and protect their heritage and historical sites. I was not the only one marveled by this fact.
Tom Link, a visitor from Pittsburg who was exploring El Morro, said that it was "very interesting to look at it and realize how many years ago the Spaniards were here. What we are mostly impressed with are the fortifications, I mean, my goodness! They still stand after all these years and they are enormous, covering most of the old San Juan. It is very beautiful, an impressive work by the Spanish."
His wife, Nell Link, similarly agreed saying "You come here and you are like ‘oh, my God!’ They come from a great history. People underestimate this place, those who came from here, the beauty of this place, its history. It has been a big surprise for us."
In Jose Pereira's opinion, these forts are part of Puerto Rican culture.
"When you are a child, you go to the forts to fly kites. This area is great to have activities. People grow with the forts. It is part of our culture, we feel owners of the forts and we preserve them. If we see someone attempting to damage San Cristobal, El Morro or any part of this historical site, we protect it."
He continued saying that visiting the forts is one of the first excursions children have with their school.
"It is an amazing experience for kids, because at a young age you believe in pirate stories, soldiers and so on. As an adult, when you visit the forts, you revive your childhood and the many times you went there to play."
In fact, not only Puerto Rican children can have a memorable experience when visiting the forts. Park ranger Enmanuel Rodriguez said that because the forts are part of the National Park Service, the junior ranger program applies to this historical site.
Designed for children between ages of 5 and 12, the program offers kids a free activity book--and entrance ticket--they have to complete throughout their visit. Once they finish the required number of pages--which vary depending on the child's age--they are certified as junior rangers, pledge a short oath and are awarded with a badge from San Juan National Historic site.
"This is a very special activity for children because they can collect the badges and it works as a little souvenir. Not only Puerto Rican children learn about their own history but also children from all around the world can know about Puerto Rico. From an early age, children can learn the importance of protecting and preserving places like this," said Enmanuel Rodriguez.
With this entertaining and free program for young ones, both adults and children have the opportunity to enjoy this exciting attraction in Old San Juan. For only $15, adults can purchase a day pass that covers the entrance to both forts.
After my expedition through the marveling forts of Old San Juan I hoped on the trolley that would take me to a small street where I was going to have lunch with my classmates. On the trolley, I turned to give one last look at El Morro.
And there it was, surrounded by fields of green were children and their parents flew colorful kites and dozens of visitors explored the place. The more than 400 years construction stood undefeated and proud under the bright Puerto Rican sun.
This last scene captured what El Morro and San Cristobal are: centuries old fortifications that are not only an important part of the island’s history, but their significance goes beyond the documented data. The forts represent the cultural heritage that, for generations, has contributed to proudly make people identify as what they are: Puerto Ricans.
Photo by: Juliana Gutierrez
Photo by: Juliana Gutierrez
Photo by: Juliana Gutierrez
Photo by: Juliana Gutierrez
To learn more about San Juan National Historic site visit:
http://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/fort-san-cristobal/
http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/el-morro/
http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/el-morro/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g147320-d149852-r177556712-San_Juan_National_Historic_Site-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico.html
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