Talented college students share their experiences in Puerto Rico with words and images. Led by Dr. Meta G. Carstarphen of the University of Oklahoma, Gaylord College of Journalism & Mass Communication, this course experience offers six(6) credit hours through an intensive immersion experience in Puerto Rico. Prof. Jocelyn Pedersen, prolific and award-winning author, co-hosts these teams of students as they explore, and write about, their tourism experiences.
Puerto Rico
Saturday, April 10, 2010
About the 2009-2010 class: Why we were there, and why we will return
The 2009-2010 class is the 4th installment of this course and this blog reflects student experiences from their travels between December 29, 2009 through January 11, 2010. Dr. Carstarphen (Dr. C) and Guest Lecturer, Dr. Federico Subervi (Dr. S) from Texas State University in San Marcos, TX led this year's exciting class. Dr. Subervi is a "native son" of Puerto Rico and has brought a great deal of enthusiasm, insider perspectives and just plain fun to our class adventures. Who knew he was such a good cook?
Our intrepid graduate assistant was Ms. Jocelyn Pedersen, who is finishing her Masters degree in Professional Writing from OU and is a contributing writer for The Norman Transcript newspaper in Norman, OK.
Last but not least, the logistics of this rigorous, challenging but enjoyable schedule of activities were coordinated by Mr. Pablo Espada of Logistics PR (http://www.logisticspr.com/).
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Puerto Rican Passion
It has almost been a week since I have been back at home in Central Texas, and while it feels nice to be around the familiar again, I cannot help but think to myself each day, “I wonder what I would be doing if I were still in Puerto Rico.”
Something inside me is still drawn to that beautiful ‘Isla del Encanto.’ I miss the hot, sticky, humid weather. I miss the flavorful foods that are impossible to find in my town. I miss the beaches and the palm trees. I miss the laid-back, carefree, loving attitude that flows through the air no mater what part of the island you’re on. But I think what I miss most about Puerto Rico is passion.
Puerto Ricans have an intense feeling of pride for their patria, or motherland, and this pride transcends into every aspect of their lives as passion. Even the museum director in Vieques who was from Boston was passionate about Puerto Rico, his home for more than 30 years now.
Passion was present when we conducted interviews with locals there. They were so willing to talk with us, so willing to share part their patria, their Puerto Rico with visitors. I saw passion when talking to complete strangers, how they worked to improve my not-so-perfect Spanish.
One individual in particular showed so much passion for his patria that throughout the duration of our time there, he would text suggestions of what to do in whatever place we were in for the day.
Whoever I spoke with would always ask me what I thought of Puerto Rico to which I always responded with excitement telling them how much I loved the island. Each and every time, someone would always say, “It makes me so happy you love my country.”
It seemed strange to me at first that they responded in this way, but over the two weeks I saw how much puertoriqueños love their home. Puerto Ricans love their home so much that they are eager to share with everyone the passion that lives in Puerto Rico.
it's about the people
by Emily Nicholls, a.k.a. Coco
Adiós mi amor Puerto Rico
Adiós mi amor Puerto Rico
By Adam Pinkney
Two weeks on an island was the best Christmas and new years gift I could have ever received. In these two weeks I learned a lot about the rich history and culture of Puerto Rico. I fell in love with the people, food, music, and beaches. No other place I have ever visited compares to Puerto Rico. I felt so welcome and did not want to come back home. However, back to reality and I cannot forget the amazing effect this beautiful Island had on me.
I will also never forget the awesome group of classmates that shared in my experiences. This was the best group of friends I could have asked for on this trip. We all smiled, laughed, and pretty much cried when we had to leave. My two professors and TA were also of great support on this trip and they made a perfect team.
Learning about the history of a place while being in the place was the best learning experience I have ever had. We actually went to the historical sites and absorbed the sites and sounds of places such as El Yunque rainforest, Vieques, Quanica dry forest, and bioluminescent bay to name a few. The local people are so loving and caring. They do not discriminate on the basis of race or skin color because the Puerto Rican race is so varied. Puerto Ricans are made up of Taino Indian, Spanish, and African.
For a person that has never visited the island, I would first suggest to them a tour guide named Jose Pereira. He is an awesome guide and you will fall in love with him. I also fell in love with every other native that I came in contact with. No one was rude; they were all nice and loving. One tip would be to make sure and pack a ton of bug spray.
Finally, the intangibles that I walk away with are emotions. I have never loved and felt so loved as much as I did in Puerto Rico. The beautiful sounds and smells of the island will dwell with me forever. The most important intangible, which I will soon turn into tangible, are the ideas I have been coming up with for my graduate project. I will be making a documentary of Puerto Rico in some sort of fashion.
No Reservations for Bourdain
No Reservation for Bourdain
By Adam Pinkney
Mr. Bourdain did not want to be a lousy tourist, he wanted to live amongst the people and receive the stamp of approval. Throughout the show he kept repeating how he was in search of the “ real Puerto Rico” and did not want to entertain himself with a typical tourist itinerary. Bourdain was somewhat a passive observer, however he definitely wanted to get down and dirty. For example he stepped into the ring with an undefeated boxing champion Miguel Cotto. Luckily for Bourdain, the champ spared his life.
Other adventures of his travel included a search for the mythical chupacabra, horseback riding, lobster diving, music and lots of food. Bourdain enjoyed the locals and they were also pleased to have him around. At the end of the show he told a couple of locals about his adventures on the island and they gave him a stamp of approval.
I enjoyed this type of travel writing Bourdain pursued. It was more of documenting visually with sound and video of his experience in Puerto Rico. I relate very well to his style of travel writing and would not change anything about his approach. I agree with the anti-conquest theme of innocence. For some reason tying in the theme of innocence reminds me of a bible verse. “Father, forgive them, for they know not what they do” (Luke 23:34).
Friday, January 15, 2010
Enchanted
by Emily Nicholls
Maybe I'll avoid that water...
By Emily Nicholls, a newly not-so-germophobe
Que pase lo que pase, yo sera Puerto Riquena!
I feel as if I have fallen in love again, but this time with my mother country! I feel as if I have started a long distant relationship where it begins passionate, remains committed, and yet it’s not enough to just be labeled as in a relationship—I need that physical presence. I cannot remember when there was a time that I did not know that I was Puerto Rico, but I do know that it is not until recently when I realized that everything that has kept me connected and rooted in Puerto Rico is unfortunately succumbing to age and will eventually leave me without a cultural and spiritual connection to where I am from. It is up to me to discover the history, flavor, and spice of Puerto Rico. I cannot help but become emotional when it comes to writing about mi patria. I cannot explain the emotions that well up in my throat like an immovable lifesaver. It’s the fifteen years of summers spent listening to the coqui, waking up to walk across a gravel path to abuelita’s for breakfast, and always having afternoon serenade of dominoes sliding across a tabletop. I could not ask for a better memory of where I am from and how I became who I am today. The simple and culturally rich environment of Puerto Rico has become a very important facet in my life!
Contrary to what my other classmates would believe, the classroom material was also new to me. Up until now, I did not know the political affiliations and intentions on the island, the towns and various knowledge bowl trivial, and the various historical struggles of my people. The most beautiful aspect of Puerto Rico that I experienced on the trip was the humble and beautiful hospitality of my people and how the attitude is connected to the quintessential struggle for cultural identity. The Puerto Ricans have an extensive history of being the conquered and yet they have still remained true to their identity, Boricua’s. During our various lectures on wheels, the class learned of these historical dates and timelines when countries came into Puerto Rico and began their reign of cultural cleansing; however, no matter how many attempts they always failed. The people may be a conquered people, but we will never forget who we are and why we are so.
Mi Patria, es simple, es bella, es el cielo y el mar. Es mi criansa, es mi spiritu, es mi ser y poder. I do not normally write or type in Spanish, but extreme passion and emotion have stirred within me what I can know say is what my intangible is: My mother country, it is simple, beautiful, the sky and the sea. It is my upbringing, my spirit, my being and my strength.
Just Do It
We stood there in the middle of a large crowd, accompanied by the sounds of crying children and the presence of signs warning about the Swine Flu. We stayed stationary for about thirty minutes, and then started to move slowly toward the large boat. It was time to go to the island – the beautiful island of Vieques.
Vieques would be a place of beauty and amazement. The Puerto Rico tourism industry bragged about Vieques’ beautiful white beaches and snorkeling opportunities. The island was also home to one of a handful of bioluminescent bays in the world, a bay that glows when the water is disturbed. Even though the tourism industry would brag about these attributes of the island, they would attempt to hide the island’s dark history.
The day after we got settled in our hotel, I picked up a map of Vieques. I noticed that the eastern and western parts of island stated “restricted area.” The island’s middle section was the only region containing residents of the island. These facts struck my interest, and the next day I would find out exactly what happened on this island so many years ago.
During the Korean Conflict, the U.S. Navy used Vieques for training exercises. They required all residents to move from the eastern and western parts of the island to the middle. According to Roberto Rabin, a member of the Committee for the Rescue and Development of Vieques, “the fifty years that the Navy has been operating in Vieques can be classified as a half century of environmental disaster.” The bombing has contaminated the soil and the air. This contamination has caused the people to be more susceptible to diseases; the morality rate for cancer in Vieques is 34 percent higher than in Puerto Rico. Also, 45 percent of Viequenses have toxic levels of mercury. This left the people of Vieques in an unprecedented position; they are now isolated residents fighting the world’s superpower.
The people of Vieques took the streets in protest of the U.S. Navy’s continued bombings of the island. Even though they were protesting, it looked like a fiesta filled with food and dancing. They continued protesting for many years, and it all seemed hopeless.
But a man was killed because of one of the U.S. Navy’s training exercises, and the people became even more furious. Finally in 2003, the U.S. Navy decided to halt all military exercises on the island and have been trying to improve conditions on the island ever since.
This trip has helped me realize that life is truly a precious gift. A lot of Puerto Ricans continue to live in poverty. But despite this, they seem to be full of life. We have everything we could ever want in Oklahoma, but most people seem to be unhappy or not content with what they have. The people of Vieques know how precious life is. Even though they did not have much, they stood up to the world’s largest superpower. If you want to do something, just do it. Remember, everyone dies. But not everyone truly lives.
I Left My Heart (and one pair of shoes) in Puerto Rico
Since I’ve been home for more than 72 hours, you’d think I would have time to process the experience that was Puerto Rico. Yet the more I talk to people, I find that when they ask the inevitable question, “How was your trip?” all I can say is “amazing!” or “incredible!” The truth is this trip was a once in a lifetime experience and I doubt I will ever find the right words to describe it.
It wasn’t just the activities. It was absolutely amazing to hike and swim in a rainforest and kayak – okay, Patrick kayaked and I fought epic battles with the mangrove trees – in the Biobay. I’ll never forget the exciting things we did, but those experiences would have meant nothing without the people I met on this trip.
I didn’t fully realize what a risk it was to travel with total strangers for two weeks. It didn’t hit me until we met for our first on campus class. I silently panicked about how much money I had just spent without thinking things through. What if I don’t get along with these people? I’ll be stuck with them with no possibility of escape!
I shouldn’t have worried. After the homesickness faded, I didn’t think about home as much as I thought I would. I missed my family and friends, of course, but I never felt lonely. I always had someone around. That would have made me crazy at home but it worked wonderfully in Puerto Rico. I was having so much fun that I lost track of days of the week. I had to rely on my trusty BlackBerry to tell me if it was Friday or Sunday. Our tour guide in Ponce, Francisco, told me that was the ultimate sign of having a great time.
Every time I posted a picture on my Facebook page, my friends teased me about this class. When I posted a status update about doing homework, my friend Marie joked, “Calculus – calculating the time it takes to get the perfect tan.” Other friends asked if I was getting college credit to tour the Bacardi Rum Factory. Of course, our curriculum stretched way beyond that. We had lectures on the bus about the rich history of Puerto Rico and classroom sessions about the history of travel writing. We took tests and worked on group projects. Most of all, we learned about ourselves and each other, formed new friendships and discovered a new way to see the world.
When I transferred to OU in August, I vowed that I would take advantage of every opportunity to study abroad. I wanted to live in a new culture and experience the world outside of Oklahoma. One of my friends spent a semester in Europe and I was envious of his stories. Nathan saw Julia Roberts do a photo shoot for InStyle magazine in Italy. A woman in Ireland did his laundry for free because he was from Oklahoma, the home state of her favorite country music star, Garth Brooks. I wanted memories like that.
Now I have them. I can’t imagine a New Year’s Eve that will compare to the exclusive party at La Concha, which we attended thanks to Saint Vincent, the patron saint of parties. I’m usually a pretty reserved person until I’m comfortable with people. New Year’s Eve was the night I finally let go and let myself enjoy this beautiful new place with an amazing group of people. I danced, sang and stopped worrying about looking foolish. That’s when the fun started. I even attracted the attention of a man who spoke little English, other than, “Do you have Facebook?” I think he’s still searching for the girl in the blue dress named “Kren.”
When I returned to Oklahoma, I told a friend that my biggest regret of the trip was not taking enough pictures. I took over 1500 photos but I feel like I missed so many of the moments that made the trip so unforgettable. I wish I had pulled out the camera when we were singing on the bus or hanging out on the patio at Hotel Melia. I wish I had more pictures of us dancing on New Year’s Eve. My friend reminded me that I would have missed out on those memories if I had been more focused on taking pictures instead of living in the moment.
He’s right. I got so much more out of my time in Puerto Rico than I ever imagined possible. I learned that I’m braver and stronger than I ever knew. I realized that I can’t wait to finish school and embark on a career that involves lots of travel. I fell in love with seeing the world. I’m counting down the hours until my next study abroad trip in May.
My friends and family are excited about the things I bought home. My niece loves her seashell necklace and my mom loves her Puerto Rican coffee. I treated myself to beach time and shopping in Juana Diaz. I have a great new tan and tons of gorgeous, hand-crafted jewelry. My favorite souvenir however, is the new group of friends who are more like family. I never realized that it was possible to form such a strong bond so quickly. Thank you – each of you - for the trip of a lifetime. I will never forget any of you or our time on the Island of Enchantment.
El Lechon Asao
Bourdain’s extensive culinary background and his quick wit give him the edge in the travel writing/film business. His dry, Marlboro loving, and food fascination are what keep his television show intriguing along with the “gastronomic masterpieces.” Bourdain’s goal throughout the series is to meet, greet, and eat with the locals. His crass temper sometimes did not get him very far with impatient and understanding Puerto Ricans; one particular public car driver dropped him off earlier than anticipated calling him a pendejo or idiot—to be nice. However, his perseverance to get the authentic experience paid off when he admirably stated that Puerto Rico is the “crown jewel of the Caribbean.” Bourdain executively carried out his agenda to taste and see the varied forms of pork, the Puerto Rican fast food of pastelillos, sorullitos, plantains, and tostones. Any form of travel writing that is transposed to become more appealing to a wider audience is fantastic! As our visit with Norma Borges, El Nuevo Dia newspaper, reminded us to include graphics with detailed and visually cueing words. I would love to have a lax career savoring odd and delicious cuisine from around the world. It would be great to know how culturally connected the pork and the various other foods like the plantain and penepen are to the Puerto Rican culture. From our lectures and various discussions with the locals we were able to connect the use of foods is tied to how can one food item be used six different ways, and so the people survive off one particular food item yet do not develop an aversion to the food.
A Spark Reignited
All good things must come to an end. And such is the case with my journey to Puerto Rico. But this brief two-week excursion from reality left me with more than just facts that can help me pass a test. It left me with something a little more personal. For quite sometime I had forgotten what made me tic. That inner fire that made magic happen when called upon in time of need. My search of finding my inner self had been abruptly steered of course and this getaway was meant to get me back on course. What I didn’t realize is that it would relight a fire that had long past in my mind.
Being in a place where you can’t clearly communicate with another individual for something as simple as what you want to eat can be frustrating. More so, dealing with someone that has little to no patience because of this can push even the nicest person over the edge, especially when hunger is looming. What was so refreshing about Puerto Ricans was how much patience, generosity and love they showed in every aspect of their life. Being around this loving community re-sparked an inner love that I had for helping people.
I would have never imagined that this trip would have had such a profound affect upon me, but I am glad that it did. Understanding one’s Personal Legend is significant as it gives them the ability to focus. I don’t think I have quite found it, but my time in Puerto Rico has helped me get back on the right path to finding it. Thank you Puerto Rico for serving as that catalyst.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Remember to Enjoy the View
By Kali Carter
On the first day of fall classes, one of my professor's told my magazine class about the trip to Puerto Rico. I took the class with one of my sorority sisters, who I didn't know much about at the time. Immediately, Lauren and I told ourselves we would go on the trip together, and have the winter break of a lifetime. To be honest, I don't think either of us really thought we would follow through, but planning the trip and talking about our adventure brought us closer.
Since I was five years old, I have always been that girl who holds back if I know one other person in a group. For some reason, I always tend to let loose or act on my own when I don't know anyone around. Overall, I am a very outgoing person. I say what I think and I think that quality is often appreciated by others. On one hand, though, I am reserved. On the other, I am wild and free. Around certain groups of people, I'm quiet; Around others, I'm not. I couldn't tell you why I am different around people, because no matter how I act, I stay true to myself and I act the way I feel in each moment. Before studying abroad in South America last summer, I didn't know anyone. From the moment I arrived, I was exactly the person I wanted to be. I talked, I laughed, I made jokes, and most importantly, I didn't hold anything back. My close friends from the trip are still my good friends to this day. It was the experience of a lifetime, and I thought nothing would ever come close to topping it... Until now that is.
The Puerto Rico experience is a different story. This time, I had a friend. I expected a two week vacation filled with laying on the beach and finding the hippest nightspots. I thought having Lauren around might keep me from branching out, and it some ways, that was true. Overall, though, having her around pushed me to try new things and get out of my comfort zone in ways I might not have done otherwise.
From the first time we met at our pre-departure class back in Norman, it was clear every person in the group was unique and different. We were all different ages, we all had different interests, but we had one thing in common: we were branching out. One thing I know for certain is no matter what your age and no matter your background, trying new things and leaving your comfort zone is always a challenge. At first glance, an outsider would never think this group could become a family. I guess it's a good thing we weren't outsiders.
A few days into our trip, we went to the Puerto Rican rainforest, El Yunque. After hiking a distance, we approached a magnificent waterfall. Most of the girls were brave enough to swim under the waterfall, which is definitely one of my life's greatest moments thus far. In a weird way, that experience brought us together. That afternoon, we went to our graduate assistant's apartment in Luquillo Beach. We grilled food on her rooftop, and swam in the water at one of Puerto Rico's most beautiful beaches. Overall, it was one of those absolutely perfect days. Those days only children dream about, before they grow up and realize what a complicated world this is. It was one of those days written about in fairy tales, filled with innocence and magic. Everyone was happy. By this point, we barely knew each other, but there was no one else in the world we would have rather been with in those moments.
Although I can easily recite 50 facts about Puerto Rico thanks to Dr. Subervi's oral exam, I'm not sure how long I'll retain that information. I could easily sit here and tell everyone reading this blog that El Yunque gets roughly 200 inches of rain per year. I could tell everyone that four million people live in Puerto Rico, and that over two million of those people live in the San Juan metropolitan area. I could tell everyone that Ponce is known as the city of lions, but it wouldn't matter to them. Most people who read this do not care about the facts, because that's something they will forget. I, too, will eventually forget the facts, but I will always have my memories.
My memories include New Years Eve, which was by far everyone in the group's best New Year's Eve to date. My memories include El Yunque, and kayaking through the bioluminescent bay. My memories include Luquillo Beach, and the three kings day parade in Juana Diaz. My memories include our last night in Puerto Rico, and everyone coming out with me at midnight to celebrate my 21st birthday.
Although the schoolwork took its toll, I definitely came away with a better knowledge of a culture, both similar and different than my own. My friendship with Lauren became stronger, and I formed bonds with everyone else in the group. I am so grateful for all of my experiences over the past two weeks, and the trip turned out better than I ever could have imagined. I enjoyed all the people I was lucky enough to meet, because they truly are what made the experience worthwhile. After all, the journey means nothing if you have no one to share it with.
I have traveled all my life, and as an aspiring travel writer, I can say for certain this trip will not be my last. Each experience is its own, and not at all comparable to any journey that occurs either before or after. I will always have fond memories of my time in Puerto Rico, and I feel so privileged to know everyone who was a part of it. I know we will all go our separate ways from here, but for two weeks, we were a family, and no one can ever take that away from us. I will always care deeply for everyone on the trip, and I look forward being a part of everyone's lives as we look forward to the many adventures that await us.
Of God and Mofongo
I’m not a religious person. God, for me, has always been more of a question or intangible possibility than an absolute. My views have evolved throughout my life. I’m no longer so devoutly agnostic as I once was whilst growing up in the conservative safe haven that is Edmond, Oklahoma. The further I get from the people shouting at me that alcohol is a sin and educated women are tools of the devil, the more I can envision a god.
For the past few years, as I have gone through graduate school, everyday I’m overcome with intense feelings of love and gratitude for the place and person I am today. I have never felt so comfortable and content in my entire life. The further I get away from the city I grew up in, the more convinced I am that there is a god out there, just not the one in Edmond that wanted me to fry.
I don’t mean to bring up a controversial topic. I’m a good country girl and I know better than to talk about religion or politics in polite company. And I know this all seems wholly irrelevant to Puerto Rico. But I’m getting there.
I’ve always been terrified of water. Pools, lakes, ponds, and stagnant mosquito-ridden puddles used to make my blood run cold. I’m not a strong swimmer, I’ve never looked good in a swimsuit, and my family isn’t the type to pack up and go to the lake. Up until my trek to Puerto Rico, I had only seen the ocean once before.
On New Year’s Day, I stepped off the sand on the beach in Luquillo and made my way into the waters of the Atlantic for the first time. I didn’t swim much, and I found out that I wasn’t good at boogie boarding, but I did wade out a little and experienced real waves for the first time.
Before this day, I had been feeling intensely homesick. I was the furthest from my family that I had ever been, and I was surrounded by a class of near-strangers. But when I stared out at the waves, I didn’t really care anymore. I finally was beginning to understand why so many people love the ocean, an entity that used to terrify me.
As the days wore on in Puerto Rico, we were so busy that many of us lost track of time and couldn’t really tell you what day of the week it was. Some complained of missing their boyfriends or girlfriends, or wanting to see their family. While I did miss my family, I really didn’t have any desire to go back. Even now, as I sit on my couch staring out the window at the dreary gray deathscape that is winter, I think that I could definitely go back.
It’s not just the ocean or the white sand beaches though. I think it was the people there too. There were so many people constantly surrounding us in San Juan that I initially felt scared. I had never been to such a big city before. As we ventured away from San Juan to cities like Ponce and Juana Diaz, I began to feel less like an outsider. Though my Spanish is still the Spanish of a public high school classroom, I still felt like I could make my way through Puerto Rico.
So, my initial reason to take this course was to get away from my family and see the world in order to become a better writer. I’m not sure if my writing has gotten any better, but I definitely have a new perspective on my surroundings. I think seeing a place unlike your home forces you to consider new ideas and makes you adjust your opinions just a little. Going into this trip, I thought that I would always live in Oklahoma. Graduate, get a job here, and finally raise a family. After this class, though…I’m thinking there might be some other things for me on the horizon. I now have places to go and a to-do list to go along with them.
So what does all this have to do with my imaginings of a celestial being? Well, maybe nothing. Or maybe everything. I am thankful that I was able to go on this class trip. I am thankful that I had the experiences I did—sleeping on a beach, hiking through a rainforest, swimming in a waterfall, standing on an 800-year old tree, seeing more neoclassical/Spanish revival architecture than I could even recognize, eating fresh pineapple on the side of the road, seeing a religious festival and standing in the middle of it…
And even now, as I wallow in flannel pajamas, I can almost still feel the ocean and how it felt to be hit by a wave for the first time. It was a whirlwind two weeks to say the least. And somewhere in the middle of all of it, I became content with just going with the flow. I stopped missing my home. I didn’t care that I was sleep deprived. I welcomed a dish called mofongo with open arms. In all of this, I would say there is more than just a tincture of grace. This opportunity to travel, the experiences I’ve had, and the new friends I’ve made—these are all things I would call blessings.
Did I find religion in Puerto Rico? Nope. But some of the feelings that I’ve come to over the years have been reinforced. And maybe for a once-staunch agnostic, seeing the ocean and riding the wave of travel is a good first step.
Adios, Puerto Rico.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Following Anthony's Footsteps
At El Sol Sale Para Todos aka The best Pina Coladas in the world!
Anthony Bourdain is one of my few celebrity “obsessions.” When I watch No Reservations, I am fully and completely captivated by every little thing he does. Whether he is in Washington DC or Chile, Portland or Prague, he always makes sure that his viewers get a little taste of local flavor.
I personally feel that his style of travel is the only was to travel and actually get to experience life as the locals do. In my communicating cultures class, we learned that anti-conquest is a style of travel writing in which the traveler doesn’t impose his or her own ideas of culture onto the new culture he or she is encountering. That is, the traveler dives into another culture in order to experience a complete immersion.
Prior to coming to Puerto Rico I mentally prepared myself to not compare their culture to any others because I wanted to have a completely open mind. Hard as I tried, I could not help but to develop a certain expectation, that when I got to San Juan was proven unfulfilled for some reason. I was expecting to get to see some of the ‘real’ San Juan, but instead we stayed in a touristy area in the city.
Although I enjoyed the trip to the Barcadi factory and walk on the jungle trail in El Yunque, I rather wanted to see how people lived their daily lives, where they lived, worked and played.
I was thrilled that on our first outing without the entire group we wandered around, and found a convenience store/bar type of establishment where you could buy anything from tape to pork-n-beans as well as order a drink. We initially walked in just to check out what it was, but we eventually found that we stayed for over an hour.
It was things like that and El Sol Sale Para Todos, the side-of-the-road Piña Colada stand that tuned out to be the absolute best piña colada that anyone had tasted, that I was glad I was given a glimpse of.
Travelers vs. Tourists
By Kali Carter
Centuries ago, before Lonely Planet guidebooks and the Travel Channel, people traveled to places not knowing what they might find. Often times, trying new things or venturing off the paved trails lead to the most hidden and unbelievable treasures. In fact, some of the world's best discoveries came about by accident. When Columbus set sail for India, he discovered America. When Alexander Fleming was looking for a cure for the flu, he had no idea a contamination in the Petri dish would create penicillin. When I traveled to Puerto Rico for a travel writing class, I too was not prepared for what would turn out to be a life-changing experience.
For as long as I can remember, I have done my research on every place I have traveled to. To be quite honest, I am not sure I know how to travel without creating iteneraries or organized plans. This summer, though, I traveled to South America for my first study abroad experience. For the first time, I was not in control of my plans. For the first time, things went wrong. For the first time, I immersed myself in a different culture. For the first time, I actually lived. It was not until Puerto Rico, though, that I figured out why.
On the television show "No Reservations," host Anthony Bourdain travels off the beaten path to find the hidden treasures. He lives by the philosophy that anyone can read a guidebook or pick up a map, but in order to truly experience a different culture, it is necessary to stop reading and start living. One of the best ways to do this is to ask the locals. The locals know where to eat, where to shop, and where to hang out; they also understand the customs better than any guidebook. Anthony Bourdain travels using the concept of the anti-conquest. The anti-conquest is a term coined by Mary Louise Pratt to describe the idea of innonence in traveling.
Like many tourists, I take pictures of what I see, especially when someone points out that a particular building, statue, landmark, etc. is of historical importance. Most of the time, when I return home and look through my pictures, I cannot remember what the picture is of. On New Years Eve, my friends and I met a French man named Vincent. The next day at the beach, there was one moment in particular that our entire group was checking their individual cell phones. I watched Vincent's reaction and asked him why he was smiling. He told me texting and checking cell phones were a very "American thing to do." We proceeded to have a conversation about the need for instant gratification. One thing that stuck with me throughout the conversation is what Vincent called life through a lens. He said many people spend their time travelling by taking pictures or videos, which distracts them from the real picture and learning about what they see. He said it is easier to pay attention when we have to rely on ourselves, instead of technology, to remember the information. Until this moment of clarity, I always thought capturing the picture digitally meant making a memory, but I finally realized the memories are made when time isn't wasted getting the camera out.
At one point during our stay, my friend Lauren and I walked around the streets of the city, when we stumbled upon what appeared to be the Rodeo Drive of San Juan. The street lined with upscale stores like Cartier, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci, is also home to the famous La Concha hotel. In two consecutive nights, my friends and I saw celebrities Ty Pennington and Benicio del Toro. Although meeting Benicio was a trip highlight, the most fun we had on a night out came in the town of Ponce at a local attraction called Hollywood Cafe. If I wanted to see celebrities and shop at expensive stores, I would have spent my winter break in Los Angeles. Personally, I would rather buy a purse from a street vendor or a souvenir shop.
On our last night in San Juan, our entire group went out to dinner to commemorate our last night. This was also the day before my 21st birthday. In typical tourist fashion, we could have easily gone to a popular tourist spot like Senor Frogs or Hard Rock Cafe, but we tried a local restaurant called Raices, which had some of the best mofongo (a local food) on the island.
In the end, Anthony Bourdain got it right. Although the tourist hotspots almost always guarantee a good time, nothing really beats trying new foods and getting the authentic island experience. I have done a lot of traveling in the past 21 years of my life, but what I learned over the past two weeks is a new way of traveling I will take with me the rest of my life.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Puerto Rico Confidential
I found out that my friend Justin had the chance to meet Anthony Bourdain. Prior to our arrival in Puerto Rico, we watched an episode of Bourdain’s show, No Reservations. For those of you who have never seen the show, he spends a lot of time mocking other travel show hosts whose idea of visiting a new place means checking out a new spa. He seeks an authentic experience rather than a generic tour of the same places.
I’ve adored Anthony Bourdain ever since Kitchen Confidential and I love him even more in No Reservations. He’s the anti-tourist who seeks out what truly makes each culture unique, whether it’s local legends or local food. He is, as we learned in class – yes, we did have class in paradise – an anti-conquest travel writer. He immerses himself in the culture to observe, not to judge.
My Puerto Rico experience was a bit different than his, however. When we arrived in San Juan, I expected to see mofongo and roasted pigs in every store window. Instead, our hotel had a surprising number of sushi and Asian restaurants within walking distance. When we visited La Concha Hotel, the manager told us that sushi was really popular in Puerto Rico. “We make sushi with a Latin twist,” he said.
I didn’t feel that I had the real food of Puerto Rico until I visited the beach town of Luquillo. Next to the gorgeous, lush blue water and white sands was a stretch of kioskos. It seemed like the long, narrow building stretched a mile. There were so many food stands with many of the same things: empanadillas, fried mashed potato balls filled with meat, deep fried pieces of cod, and lots of rice and beans. It reminded me of the Oklahoma State Fair with a prettier background.
My classmates and I decided to eat pinchos, grilled meat (I chose chicken) on a stick. It was so tender and juicy; before the vendor handed it over, he brushed it with a thin layer of sauce. For our drinks, we purchased fresh coconuts with a hole cut in the top for the straw. This was the road food I imagined to be authentic in Puerto Rico.
Later that night, we returned for dinner. I tried a Puerto Rican favorite, rice and beans with chicken, and realized why people love it so much. It was so flavorful and seasoned perfectly. I say this as a person who only eats beans when they are mashed into a dip or inside of a burrito. I don’t know how they cook them in Puerto Rico but I am determined to find out.
Overall, I think Bourdain did a good job of seeking out authentic Puerto Rico, although he had the advantage of working with a camera crew, producers, and a translator. We could have used location scouts so Abigail, Marisa, Clint and I wouldn’t have wandered around Old San Juan looking for Barrachina only to discover that they were closed for a holiday. The show provided some insight about what makes Puerto Rico unique but I’m glad I was able to experience it for myself.
Mr. Bourdain and I
I don’t think I’m the only woman on this planet that has a crush on Anthony Bourdain. I find the idea of traveling to be simultaneously intriguing and sexy—you know, the sort of intellectual sexy that people associate with black-framed glasses and quoting Dylan Thomas poetry. Also, being on the Travel Channel has boosted his sex appeal in my eyes. I mean, I guess I’ve already mentioned the absurd love I feel for Adam Richman. I’m really just waiting for one of these handsome men to find me and offer me a big ol’ diamond ring. But until then, I suppose I’ll continue with my graduate coursework…hence the rest of this blog.
(I promise, the digressions will be a little less, well…digressionary from here on out.)
So, back to Mr. Bourdain. His show ,“No Reservations”, has become somewhat of a pop culture phenomenon. I can’t go anywhere without hearing somebody talk about the one episode where he drank homemade liquor in Greece, or the time that he was the lone white man in Saudi Arabia. Also, his book, Kitchen Confidential, is nicely situated in the “to-be-read” pile on my bookshelf. The thing about his show and his books that I found so monumentally appealing, is the “behind-the-scenes” look he gives you of the worlds he presents. It’s almost like he makes you one of the locals, or, as in the case of his book, a member of the kitchen staff.
To me, this is what traveling should be.
People who head out to Jamaica to sit at a lame-o upper middleclass, all expenses paid, adult daycare center aren’t really travelers. To me, these folks are still living in the colonial era. (I say this only because I have a degree in English, and well, the Postcolonial theory was always my favorite.) But traveling to an area that is completely different than your home country and then only staying in an area that has been made to mimic the overly American ideal of paradise, complete with five-star hotels and surgically enhanced trophy wives parading in leopard print bikinis isn’t really getting out of your country club comfort zone, now is it?
Bourdain (my homeboy as I call him, especially when I want people to think that I’m cool and cultured and hang out with world travelers even though I pretty much just chill back in Oklahoma) subscribes to a school of thought known as the anti-conquest method of travel writing. Now, not to get too pretentious for all you folks out there in the floating ether la la land that is the interwebs, but I’m gonna lay down some knowledge. Get ready. Academic notions ahead!
Anti-conquest travel writing is the sort of travel writing that doesn’t separate the visitor from the visited. That is, the traveler immerses himself/herself in the culture he is visiting. In doing this, the traveler isn’t able to take the perspective of the outsider and pass judgements on the culture he/she is visiting. He/she isn’t assimilating his/her surroundings into his/her frame of reference. In this way, the traveler functionally presents the culture as it stands, without conquering it with his/her own cultural ideals.
Maybe this is why Mr. Bourdain is totally my homeboy. I love the way that wherever he goes, he jumps into the culture headfirst and does what the locals do. I’ve never seen him refuse food on the basis that it may be a little sketchy. I’ve never seen him refuse alcohol even though, by western scientific standards, it may be rocket fuel. I’ve never seen him refuse to join the party because he doesn’t speak the language. This is the essence of anti-conquest travel. This is what traveling should be.
We can’t look down our noses at people and claim that their quality of life is deplorable, all from the comfort of our ivory balconies of our seaside resort. Without getting too preachy, it’s these kinds of resorts that under develop islands like Jamaica. If you’ve never seen the documentary, Life and Debt, you should check it out. If it doesn’t make you hate big resorts that function as the governor’s mansion on the colonial plantation, then you probably need to reevaluate your values and morals.
I guess, in the end, we are only one world. I feel just as connected to strangers as I do to my family. Though I love my family, I know that the strangers I see as I travel could become a part of my family some day. There are no real strangers in this world, only potential friends. That is why when we travel, we can’t look at those we encounter as “the others"--this isn’t an episode of Lost. This is the human race. We aren’t here to conquer it.
So, as I make my way through Puerto Rico, I try to keep these thoughts in mind. I'm already the farthest I've ever been away from my home and family. The comfort zone is left far behind. There is nothing left to do but enjoy the time I have in the place I am with the people I'm with the way that the people who live there do.
Traveling and Tact: Mutually Exclusive in the World of Bourdain
In layman’s terms, anti-conquest travel writing means that which does not interfere with a place’s native culture. And if you’ve ever seen Anthony Bourdain’s Travel Channel show, “No Reservations,” you know he is the epitome of becoming one with indigenous civilizations…and of dogging on those travel shows that cater only to tourist hot-spots.
New place, new perspective.
While in Puerto Rico, I learned more about myself, a culture and a history than I ever have in any classroom setting. The culture of the island is something to be amazed by. The food is something that everyone should try if you have a change to be there. Local dishes such as rice and beans, mofongo, tostones and sweet plantains are delicious no matter where you get them. You can expect great taste and service from a little building on the side of the road to a four star restaurant in downtown San Juan. The hospitality of these people is something that shows even into its service industry. Another thing I noticed about the island is the unity of its people through religion. The Three Kings Day Festival in Juanas Dias was something that I will never forget. It was an amazing site to see people from all around come together to celebrate and enjoy life. What really amazes me is how the parade was so interactive. Back in the states, I am use to barricade and security keeping you from interacting with the people and being a part of the celebration. At the Three Kings Day festival, that was not the case. I was able to take pictures and be an active participant.
Something I really enjoyed about Puerto Rico was, of course, the nightlife. Everything there reflects their culture. Dancing to drinks, it was always a fun and new experience. The bars and clubs stay open way later than they do in the states and the people still seem to party all night and work all day. There were differences in the nightlife scene depending on where you go throughout the island. These differences are caused by culture, religion and tourism. Many places in the south were not as busy and party oriented as San Juan.
The main thing I take away from this trip is the experiences I had with friends and myself. Being able to experience such beauty with others make you closer to them. Personally, the biobay and rainforest are two sites I will never forget. These are the kind of experiences that even back home you can remember how they affected all of your senses. I didn't know anyone but Kali in our group before the trip, and now I feel like I have known some for years. To see a group of very different students come together to live and learn for two weeks was something amazing. I also learned a lot about myself on this trip. Being away from home and having only responsibilities to yourself, those around you and your class was a refreshing feeling. Experiencing all the things I did, I felt content and happy just being where I was and who I was. It isn't everyday that people get to go on such an extraordinary journey and I feel blessed to have been a part of it.
The Exquisiteness of a People
The Exquisiteness of a People
Zaina Al Ghabra
January 12, 2010
Waking up at the crack of dawn in order to leave a place of joy, beauty and history wasn’t easy. As excited, as we all were to get home to our pets, our beds and our daily routines, a feeling of sadness remained lurking deep within us. Before embarking on this journey, I expected to encounter only feelings of happiness and fun and come across beautiful beaches and beautiful people. However, leaving Puerto Rico, I feel as though I have really gotten to know her, her insecurities, her pain and her long history, which are masked with happiness, beauty, nature, music and pride.
First and foremost, most people visiting the Island are unaware of the intrinsic nature of its evolving history. The Puerto Rican people are not strangers when it comes to stories of war, and fighting for justice in the name of their land and their roots. When the United States of America won Puerto Rico from the Spanish in 1898 that was only the beginning of an agenda to wipe out Spanish as a language and as a culture. However, the Puerto Ricans, so proud of their heritage and roots which involve a mixture of Taíno, African, Spanish, European and even Middle Eastern, fought long and hard to keep their culture alive. After all, this fusion of cultures is what truly makes a Puerto Rican a Puerto Rican.
Like any other tourist, of course we visited the beautiful beaches and the amazing wonder of the rainforest. Adding on to the Islands mystical beauty was the bioluminescent bay, where we kayaked through mangroves in darkness, our paths only lit by the magnificent stars above us. What makes this bay so unique is the amount of dinoflagellates (a plankton) that is present in the bay, thus creating a sparkle of stars when you inject your hand into the water. According to the website of the bay, “Imagine a lagoon full of Tinkerbells fairy dust! Pure magic, the experience is actually indescribable.”
However, beneath all the fascinating things the Island offers, I found myself first identifying with the people at the Three Kings Festival, where everyone played a role in the parade and the aftermath of the celebration. People were unified, expressing the love of their culture while commemorating the Three Kings. Being from Palestinian descent, I felt a level of nationalism and pride that I thought only existed amongst the Palestinian people. The amount of emotion expressed at this parade was overwhelming and therefore, I felt as though I had bonded not only with the people, but also with Puerto Rico.
Approaching our final days, we visited the Island of Vieques, where we learned about the injustices enforced on the people living here. The US navy has been using this Island as a location to practice tactical military operations. Besides the fact that the people here were forced to relocate from the outskirts of the Island to the center of the Island, they are constantly living with sounds of bombs exploding, rattling doors and dangerous chemicals floating in the air. More so, due to all the chemical radiation, the amount of sickness and disease spreading on this Island is far greater than any other city or Island in Puerto Rico. Watching a short video composed by students who visited Vieques, I found myself overwhelmed with emotion. Seeing the Puerto Rican people protesting wholeheartedly against the injustices they faced, paralleled with the struggle of the Palestinians.
Being able to identify with the Puerto Rican people was perhaps the finest experience I gained on this astonishing Island. My story does not end here, this may have been the first time I visit Puerto Rico, but it definitely won’t be the last.